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Help! My wheels are stuck on the car and I can't get them off! I removed all the nuts and they won't budge!
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You live in the Rust Belt, don't you? There are two answers to this, depending on how badly they're welded on there.

The first thing to try (with the car properly supported on stands, of course!) is this: Wheel nuts removed, tuck your left hand around the back of the wheel at the 9:00 position so you can pull it towards you. Now pull hard towards yourself, and while doing that, give the 3:00 position of the tire a hard smack  with the heel of your right hand. If the rust isn't too bad, the wheel should pop off.

Didn't work? A more drastic method is then required, a method pretty much guaranteed to work: With all four wheels on the ground, loosen all the wheel nuts so there is maybe 1/32" of air between the nut and the wheel. If you can't see the air space because your wheels are too thick, then after breaking the nut loose, turn it clockwise by hand so the nut just touches the wheel, then turn it a half-turn counter-clockwise. With the wheel nuts loosened thusly, start the car and drive it out of your driveway or parking spot, then back into place again, waggling the steering wheel madly as you go. You might have to repeat this procedure a few times before the wheels are liberated. If they're REAL bad, find a close speed bump or pothole something to drive over. As soon as they crack loose, retighten them again.

WARNING: I am NOT suggesting you do something like drive the car to the store like this. Your wheels are LOOSE, and on purpose. You are only going to move the car 50 or 100 feet or so, NO MORE unless required. The idea is to use rotating motion combined with steering stresses and the car's weight to break the corrosion seal that is locking the wheels on to the car. You will not damage the wheel or studs with such limited movement.

To prevent this from happening again, remove your wheels every fall and every spring, even if you do nothing but remove them and put them back again. This action disturbs the rust-weld that has been continuing unabated since the last time you had the wheels off, and helps delay seizure. However, if you're suffering from wheels that won't come off on account of corrosion, you should be removing the wheels twice per year anyway to service your brakes. What I like to do also is to use some 50 or 80-grit emery cloth to sand the rust from the hub and the back of the wheel, then smear a VERY thin layer of Permatex 133H or similar aluminum-based anti-seize on the back of the wheel where it contacts the hub.