Home FAQ Main Page Contact Search
|To the left is how Honda wants you to
adjust the pushrod: Booster OFF the car, and
with one of those famous "Special Service Tools" that nobody ever has,
including a lot of dealers.
This is WAY more trouble than it's worth, especially since it's easy to do it with the booster in place. You just have to modify a few tools.
Take a good look at the booster diagram at the upper left, then the ones below.
This should enable you to make sense of the photographs below.
"Star locknut" was a bit of a puzzle at first, until I discovered it
just a 12-pointed 14mm hex, like the closed end of an ordinary
We will modify one 14mm and one 17mm combination wrench in our quest to adjust the pushrod on this Integra. Your car may have different sizes, so check first.
|The first thing we need to do is remove the knee bolster. This is an invaluable step that allows people larger than a chihuahua to perform this procedure. For general details on how to do this, click here to go to a Main Relay page that requires the same thing.|
|I've crawled under the dash, camera
pointing straight up. Damn, it's snug under there...
The "Star locknut" has already been loosened here. I did that before thinking I ought to take a pic first. Do NOT allow the Adjusting Nut to rotate while it's free of the "star locknut"!
The booster is at the top of the photo while the pedal is at the bottom.
thing was to grind off a slot in the tops of the closed ends of the
wrenches. The slot was made just large enough to pass the pushrod. I
want it to hook on once it's on the nut, so it is less likely to fall
Since the pushrod is connected at both ends, you can't just slip the wrench over the end unless you take everything apart first; you have to treat it like a hydraulic brake line.
I ground the 17mm wrench head down evenly back and front. I took it
down to a thickness of 5mm, or 3/16". The faces were left square, with
no chamfering. You'll need as much bearing surface as possible for that
skinny Adjusting Nut.
The 14mm wrench was ground flat only on the back face, the one that meets the Adjusting Nut. The "Star locknut" is similarly skinny, and the chamfer that's normally put on wrenches takes too much away from a secure hold on the locknut, making it prone to slippage.
space is very tight between the firewall and the pedals, the angle of
the wrenches needed altering. Heating the wrenches cherry-red
with a propane torch and pulling them to the angle you see was enough.
My daughter enjoyed watching this part, especially when I dunked the
red-hot wrenches in water to cool them.
See how skinny the 17mm's head is? It's now no thicker than the wrench's shaft. Took some grinding, too. The metal wrenches are made of is pretty hard.
is what the wrenches will look like once you have them in place on the
The 17mm will go closest to the booster (the left side in this photo)
angles and very limited space meant I had to rotate some photos after
the fact so things would be recognizable. Sometimes it was not possible
to look through the viewfinder or even the camera's rear screen, so I
had to guess where the camera was aimed (thank goodness for digital
Here the wrenches are in place on the Adjusting Nut and the "Star locknut". To loosen them, you need to place the wrenches more-or-less as shown, use one hand to press them in place over the nuts, then use the other hand to squeeze them together, like you were closing a pair of pliers. There's no room for any other approach. And you must keep them fully-seated on the nuts or they will slip.
You must use both wrenches. If you don't, you'll rotate the entire assembly, changing the pedal height. This is how you keep the Adjusting Nut from rotating.
I put a dab of Wite-Out on the bottom of the pushrod so I could tell if it rotates on me. You don't want it to rotate just yet.
you've got the Adjusting Nut and the "Star locknut" free, you can
loosen the pedal height locknut with a regular 12mm wrench. Just crack
it loose. It does not need to be turned any more than that for now.
Make sure the pushrod has not turned. Turn it and the Adjusting Nut
back to their original positions if they move.
pedal height adjusting nut (opposite its locknut) is welded to the back
of the clevis, which is pinned to the pedal arm. If you use the 17mm
wrench to keep the Adjusting Nut from rotating while you turn the
pushrod with a pair of pliers, the distance between the pedal height
nut and the Adjusting Nut will
not change, so the pedal height will be unchanged even as the free play
changes. The locknuts themselves will not alter any clearances.
By the way, this photo was posed, and I forgot to put the 17mm wrench back for the picture. Don't rotate the pushrod until you secure the Adjusting Nut! If you can reach it, you can just use a finger to hold the Adjusting Nut still.
I discovered that one turn of the pushrod was worth approximately 6mm at the pedal. I ended up turning the rod clockwise 1.5 turns, which removed about 8mm of free play at the pedal.
The screw thread goes the usual direction:
Clockwise (in towards the booster) REDUCES free play.
Counterclockwise (out away from the booster) INCREASES free play.