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Fixing the PGM-FI Main Relay (link 2)

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I have a link to an external page on this subject run by Mark Lamonde in Britain. It's here. However, external links are never reliable and can go poof into the ether at any time. For this reason I am grateful to Thomas Eknel for providing the following photos of his Main Relay experience with his CRX (year unknown).

	The Main Relay is hidden immediately above the hood latch, behind the coin box.
	Access was obtained to the Main Relay by unbolting the hood latch, and by removing the bolt fixing the plastc dash trim in place (hole is immediately below the white Relay connector).
	And here it is... That metal clip, by the way, goes on the Main Relay in either of two ways. If you obtain a replacement Relay and the clip goes the wrong way for your car, just push it off and install it the other way around.
	As much of the old solder as possible was removed in preparation for re-soldering. It is possible to simply re-flow the old solder, but this method is better.
	Thomas does nice soldering work. "Dry" solder joins (a frosted appearance), or solder that has poor adhesion to the workpiece,  will cause a quick recurrence of the problem that led to the overhaul in the first place. If you can't produce soldering like this yourself, you're better off replacing the Main Relay with a new one. Main Relays from the wreckers are very cheap (a few dollars) and are worth a try before buying new at the dealer.
	Another view of the new soldering job.